KE25 Engine

KE25 running gear

	4a-gzte 20v in the build...
The Plan : 20v 4age twincharger
20v silvertop block rear position knock sensor drilled/tapped into block 8.9:1 4agze pistons 2nd gen 4age/4agze rods dry sump system using std oil pump to feed engine oil cooler 20v blacktop head and quad throttles exhaust porting, deburring and harder valve springs 3 layer metal head gasket custom alloy inlet plenum custom water manifold off back of head (for firewall clearance) custom water outlet at front of head ae92 remote thermostat mounted under intake plenum behind S/C Turbo - Garrett GT2870R GT3076 etc don't know yet external 38mm wastegate? Steam pipe turbo exhaust manifold 3" exhaust Front mount intercooler w/ 2.5" piping on turbo, 2" piping thru s/c SC12 supercharger (ae101 4agze), std bottom mount + custom top mount and tensioner, custom manifolds 2TZ-FZE stepper motor type s/c recirculation valve (if i can find suitable controller) Alternator low mounted under turbo with custom tensioner to suit 2L-T diaphragm operated butterfly bypass valve with custom diaphragm ECU - considering a Link G4 (4D mapping suit quad throttles, rotary solenoid ISC control etc) 7AFE oil pump with VR sensor + custom lower cam belt pulley 36-1 tooth exhaust cam front mounted cam angle sensor coil on plug sequential ignition using 2ZZFE/3SGTE coils (?) water/ethanol injection system? wide band oxy for tuning purposes W57 gearbox w/ front shifter position (ta63/ra63/ma61) 9" custom cromoly flywheel and 5puck ceramic h/d clutch (if it holds) otherwise twinplate + custom fly *more saving moneys/ sell kidney
Note: The least cluttered way I can see to setup the twincharger is to have the sc12 non intercooled. (see twincharger page in tech section). the downside is obviously heated air at lower rpm. The other is turbo into SC without a bypass. ie a compound system. There's many other ways of doing it, and the following looks to be the least intrusive. All piping is low in the engine bay which will keep engine bay clean looking.
Pro's unique best of both worlds... * low end torque * top end power no boost lag no parasitic drag at higher rpm *can turn s/c off for fuel economy	Con's complexity cost more things to go wrong extra weight time/money to tune cramped engine bay *later b/b turbos have minimal lag anyway

Engine : 20V 4AGT(Z)E
Gearbox : W57 close ratio 5speed
Since this car no longer needs to be daily driven, lets why not boost the crap out of it!
The idea here is to use all the best parts the generations of 4age have to offer, and build them into one ripper engine. The plan is to use the 20v silvertop bottom which has the larger crank journals and bigger gudgeons (compared to bluetop bigport 16v 4age). A silvertop 20v bottom end is apparently pretty much the same as ae101 4agze but much cheaper to purchase.. so have scored one for $75. I've now sourced a black-top 20v engine that had run a big-end bearing from which the head and 45mm quad throttles will be used. Turbo will sit on a custom turbo manifold, feeding a front mounted intercooler, custom intake plenum made for the quad throttles with associated intercooler piping and controlled by an aftermarket Link G4 or similar ecu which also gives me the option of installing sequential coil-on-plug ignition so the distributor can be ditched rather than cutting the firewall. A custom water manifold off the back of the head needs to be sorted amongst other things. Some ideas for that here. The system i plan to run is this.

Gearbox.. For Supra W57 box, either need to modify std bell housings, ie cut/weld the A series engine side flange on the front of a km36 5k/G52 bellhousing, or could make an adapter plate on the back of a t50 bellhousing or splash out on a custom bellhousing (Niteparts) to mount a supra gearbox to a 4age to keep things strong & reliable with another custom driveshaft and gearbox crossmember made up to suit. This then easily fits a 4agze sized 9" flywheel/clutch without contact.

Fuel delivery: Must add a surge tank to counter the fuel surge problem at anything less than a 1/4 tank. Either make a baffled fuel pickup inside the tank or use an external lift pump feeding an anti-surge tank positioned beside the main tank. From there a boot mounted high pressure pump feeds fuel to the high pressure fuel filter in the engine bay... which then feeds through the fuel rail, adjustable rising rate fpr and back into the surge tank. The surge tank has an overflow line at the top to drain fuel back into the main tank. A larger fuel delivery line and a fuel tank vent is also required. The std fuel line is pretty good size for 4age n/a. There are two types of factory fuel tank venting, one running from top of tank to front chassis rail which I have in the SR, the other from the fuel filler pipe to the rear chassis rail. combining the two, i can run the tank vent as fuel return and filler vent as the tank vent woot.

Electronics: Wire in ecu. Alarm installed with super trick anti-theft devices. battery relocated to boot to make room for turbo and cold air intake system.

Exhaust: Going for a stainless 2.1/2" or 3" mandrel bent exhaust, possibly a high flow cat if new smog laws come into effect.. and a dumpy muffler hanging off the rear. I like a quiet exhaust but having a turbo also reduces noise somewhat compared to n/a so here's hoping a straight through exhaust with resonators and cannon muffler will do the trick

Cooling: 3-core custom alloy radiator or something similar + electric fans. Intercooler sits in front of radiator and oil cooler off to one side all tucked behind an unmodified bumper.. super sleeper styles. valence will need some mods for clearance unfortunately.

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